Cropped Ankara Bomber Jacket

Hey y’all!!!

How are you??? I hope you had a great weekend because I definitely did. I had friends in town visiting and we traipsed all around LA:) One had not been to LA before so we took a tour of Hollywood and I used the opportunity to have a mini photo shoot (thanks ChaCha!)

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I think I hinted at this jacket before but I could be wrong. I actually finished it over a week ago but because it was overcast and rainy last Sunday, I couldn’t take proper photos wearing it.

I made this jacket with some Vlisco ankara. Vlisco is one of the top quality brands of wax print fabric. It took me a while (read years) to cut into this fabric because I already had so much other fabric, and I wanted to make the right garment with it. So, three weeks ago, it came to me – *lightbulb* make a cropped bomber jacket. The zipper is a black and white patterned Riri zipper cut to a custom length from Pacific Trimming.

I had a basic motorcycle jacket pattern and modified that so this is more of a motorcycle/bomber jacket hybrid.

I redrafted the pattern with an asymmetrical front and zipper, shortened the sleeves, created a ribbed collar, added an inverted V to the back. It’s fully lined with an interior button to keep everything in place. The lining has a small pleat in the back since jacket linings usually have a bit more room than the shell.

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But of course it couldn’t be just any old jacket – I had to add some fun and experiment a bit – and experiment I did. With some embroidery, quilting and cutouts.

This was my first time quilting a garment and it was an interesting process. At first I planned to use some batting I had but I washed it first to see how it would handle being laundered. This happened.

So I bought some lightweight fleece that laundered very nicely and stayed super soft. Good thing I like to test materials.

I sewed the embroidery then marked the quilting lines, avoiding the seam allowance but making sure the stitches would line up when sewn. I later decided to shorten the sleeve even more which complicated things a bit but the new length worked better so it was worth it.

Here’s more of the jacket in action:

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Don’t mind me – I was feeling myself because ChaCha took her picture taking seriously – circling around me like she was Nigel Barker:) But as you can see, I love this jacket – it’s perfect for LA weather – lightweight, fun and still functional 😉

Have a blessed week!!!!

April 6, 2015

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8 Comments

  1. Reply

    Nedoux

    March 10, 2015

    Lovely jacket, the prints on Vlisco fabrics are so lush.

    You are the undisputed Queen of Attention-to-Detail ! You sew with so much love and it always shows 🙂 .

    • Reply

      Lady ID

      March 11, 2015

      Awww, thanks!!!! I’m always working on improving the details:)

  2. Reply

    Tasha

    March 10, 2015

    I love the quilted action and the asymmetrical zipper. very creative!

    Any particular reason not to quilt into the seam allowance?

    • Reply

      Lady ID

      March 11, 2015

      Hey thanks Tasha.

      Not quilting into the seam allowance makes it easier to grade and reduce bulk. Imagine grading when your fleece is all sewn into the allowance – you basically cannot.

      Also, quilting sometimes causes measurements to change so instead of my usual half inch allowance, I used one inch on the sleeves then measured again after quilting and cut the allowance to the usual size.

  3. Reply

    chic therapy

    March 28, 2015

    I love that jacket! The print is so beautiful, and girl you are talented. Looking gorgeous in all the pics.

    • Reply

      Lady ID

      April 8, 2015

      Thanks chica!!!!

  4. Reply

    Teawine Penner

    May 5, 2015

    Oh dear…. I’m new to your blog and so in love with your tailoring!
    Where did you learn how to sew this good?! Pls do tell.

    The jacket is L O V E L Y!

    http://teawinepenner.wordpress.com/

    • Reply

      Lady ID

      May 11, 2015

      Hi!!!! Thanks for all the love. I did a bit of self-teaching, and then I enrolled in fashion design program which included patternmaking, garment construction, fashion history, textiles, etc. That was a while back but when I can I like to take a class on something. There are also a lot of online resources as well as great books for picking up techniques

What do you think?